Month: April 2005
When Paris came to Seattle, or on carrot-fennel soup
Some days, everything just falls into place.
Seattle has been sunny and warm and at least temporarily
spring-like; I managed to twist and cajole my hair into a
messy-chic ballerina-meets-French-frump bun that stayed in
place—no drooping!—for over seven hours; and, thanks to divine
intervention and local farmers, I bought two brimming basketfuls
of organic strawberries and still have money left over to pay
rent. It really doesn’t get any better than that—unless,
of course, the whole scene takes place in Paris. It’s downright
bliss all around, and especially the fantastic hair. Enjoying
these things isn’t easy, however;
it takes work, or rather, it takes leaving work early.
The story begins a few mornings ago, when I found myself
sitting in my office, distractedly watching the angle of the sun
shift on the building across the alley from my window. By two in
the afternoon, it was unbearable: I was suffering indoors while
a spectacular day hovered just out of reach on the other side of
the windowpane. But rather than continue to needlessly moan and
mourn, I put down my red proofreading pencil and
traded the carpeted hallway of the office for the concrete of
the sidewalk. A few blocks away at Pike Place Market, I found that I wasn’t
the only one: we were a crowd full of shirkers. And with good
reason: at the produce stands, tables were lined with
berries and ramps and frilly-topped carrots,
and pale green bulbs of fennel leaned invitingly out of wooden
crates. As I stopped to admire them, I felt a tap on my shoulder
and turned to find an unfamiliar woman standing next to me.
“Where is the Metro?” she asked, staring at me from behind dark sunglasses.
“You mean the Metro buses?” I replied, trying to remember if I’d ever heard anyone call the local public transportation system by its official name.
“No, the Métro, may-TRO,” she said, carefully enunciating through what I now recognized as a distinctly French accent. She made a downward zooming motion with her hand, as if to imitate a train going underground, and looked at me quizzically.
“Oh, the Métro? The subway? Seattle doesn’t have a subway. But
you can catch a bus on Third Avenue,” I explained, gesturing up
the hill. She turned from me and started away, and I returned to
the piles of produce, wondering at our surreal exchange.
Lo and behold, Paris had come to Pike Place.
Looking at the fennel bulb under my hand, I remembered
the morning that I came to France last June, when I opened the
door to my short-term rental, threw my bags down gleefully on
the bed, and ran back outside to the Sunday
market—a French version, if you will, of the one I found myself
standing in now. That morning, I snatched up the makings for a
modest early-summer feast—red-skinned apricots, a ripe wedge or
two of cheese, and the ingredients for my favorite carrot-fennel
soup—and came home to lunch in my little studio, with its tiny
hallway kitchen, sunny terrace, and kitschy garden gnome in the
grass. And this Seattle afternoon ten months later, I decided
that it was only fitting to cap my superlative day with
a celebratory carrot-fennel nod to Paris—who,
after all, had come a great distance to find me.
Indeed, some days, everything just falls into place. So I came home to my familiar long-term rental with its not-so-tiny kitchen, sunny catwalk balcony, and kitschy garden gnome on the railing; threw my grocery bag down gleefully on the counter; and ran for the stockpot.
Carrot-Fennel Soup
Adapted from Amanda
Hesser in The New York Times Magazine, and, I think,
Cooking for Mr. Latte
This light soup
strikes a perfect balance between the delicate springtime
flavors of young carrots and fennel. Be sure to choose carrots
that are sweet and worthy of being eaten on their own; if you
make this soup with tired, winter-weary ones, you’ll be sorry.
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly
sliced; fronds reserved and chopped
1 ½ lbs. carrots,
sliced into ¼-inch rounds
2 large garlic cloves, thinly
sliced
4-5 cups vegetable broth (I used Imagine brand)
¾
tsp. salt, or to taste
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
2
Tbsp. crème fraîche, or more to taste
Freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
In a large, heavy saucepan, warm oil over medium heat. Add the fennel slices, and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the carrots and garlic, and cook for another minute or two. Pour in 4 cups vegetable broth (if, after puréeing, you feel that the soup is too thick, you can add the final cup, but it’s better to err on the side of adding too little at first), and season with salt. Simmer, covered, until the carrots and fennel are very tender, about 20 minutes.
Remove the soup from the heat, and stir in the orange juice and reserved fennel fronds. If you have an immersion blender, purée the soup directly in the pot; otherwise, transfer it in batches to a food processor or blender, puréeing until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche. Taste, and adjust seasoning as necessary. Serve warm.
(Recipe updated March 20, 2007.)
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