{"id":1724,"date":"2005-08-26T04:58:00","date_gmt":"2005-08-26T04:58:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/elitemporaryblog.wordpress.com\/2005\/08\/26\/days-that-are-the-good-flesh-continuing-on-through-to-dessert"},"modified":"2015-09-24T03:54:18","modified_gmt":"2015-09-24T03:54:18","slug":"days-that-are-the-good-flesh-continuing-on-through-to-dessert","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/orangette.net\/2005\/08\/days-that-are-the-good-flesh-continuing-on-through-to-dessert\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201c\u2026days that are the good flesh continuing\u201d…on through to dessert"},"content":{"rendered":"

I am firmly of the belief that a meal has not officially ended until one has eaten something sweet<\/strong>. I\u2019m not the alone, certainly, in holding this belief, and in fact, I\u2019d venture that it\u2019s more widely and faithfully subscribed to than many major religions. Now, dessert can take many shapes\u2014for the restrained, a piece of ripe fruit; for the refined, a glass of port; for me on an average night, well, graham crackers dunked in milk and a few squares of dark chocolate\u2014but the sweet tooth must<\/em> be fed. So, knowing this much, you don\u2019t really think I\u2019d have left the lamb roast<\/a> without a swipe at the dessert table<\/strong>, do you?<\/p>\n

I didn\u2019t think so.
The theme of the day may have been meat, but truth be told, I kept a closer eye on the sweets.<\/p>\n

Prior to last year\u2019s lamb roast, I\u2019d never been a great admirer of baklava\u2014so often dry, sticky, cloyingly sweet\u2014but the Knight family\u2019s rendition is another thing entirely.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\"\"<\/a>Preparing for the inevitable raid that occurs when it hits the table, this year they\u2019d made four pans of the stuff, half walnuts and half almonds, sweet with cloves and cinnamon, and soaked in a syrup that ran down my fingers when I took a bite<\/strong>.
\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p>\n

Their neighbor Elfie, my fantasy of a Swiss grandmother made real, arrived with a tray of plum pudding, a thin, custard-topped cake dotted with soft, sweet-tart Italian plums<\/strong>, and a platter of puff-pastry twists for dipping into a deep glass bowl of peach compote.<\/p>\n

Nicho<\/a>\u2019s mother Martha arrived with a small, square basket with a flip-back top\u2014a rustic cake box, if you will\u2014from which she pulled one of her ethereally flaky pies, dark and jammy<\/strong> with blackberries from the backyard, and a delicious threat to a white tablecloth.<\/p>\n

\"\"
And of course, there were also cookies, cobblers, and a linzer tart from
Macrina Bakery<\/a>, but I selfishly saved room for my own contribution, a few creamy-crackly, melty mouthfuls of chocolate masquerading under the humble name \u201cbrownie.\u201d<\/strong> <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Be not fooled, dear reader: this is nobody\u2019s Betty Crocker box recipe, nobody\u2019s innocent kindergarten snack-time fare. With two sticks of butter and six ounces of chocolate for an 8-inch pan, it\u2019s not the sort of thing you want to be left alone with. But there\u2019s safety in numbers, so thank goodness for lamb roasts, for friends that become family and entire families that become friends, for paper plates sturdy enough to stand up to a table\u2019s worth of sweets.<\/p>\n

<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Archetypal Brownie, <\/strong>
or, as the book calls them, Best-Ever Brownies<\/strong>
Adapted slightly from
Baking with Julia<\/em><\/a>; contributing baker: Rick Katz<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>My father gave me Baking with Julia<\/em> for my \u201cun-birthday,\u201d as he inscribed it, in 1997. It lives on my kitchen counter with my favorite go-to cookbooks, and it\u2019s the one I reach for, without fail, when I think brownies. <\/p>\n

These dark, deeply chocolatey, oozy things aren\u2019t your typical specimens: they\u2019re what brownies on sad party tables everywhere aspire to be. All too often, \u201cbrownies\u201d are just so-so: oddly black, dry around the edges, super-sweet, or\u2014the horror!\u2014spongy, like cake. Not these: they\u2019re crackly on top with a soft, gooey interior, fudgy and rich, buttery and serious and very, very sophisticated. If you\u2019re of the cakey-brownie persuasion, these aren\u2019t for you. But if you like a brownie that melts on your tongue with a flood of buttery chocolate, read on.<\/p>\n

1 \u00bc cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
4 ounces best-quality unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 cups granulated sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
4 large eggs<\/p>\n

Center a rack in the oven, and preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.<\/p>\n

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and salt; set aside.<\/p>\n

Melt the butter and the chocolate together in the top of a double boiler over\u2014but not touching\u2014simmering water (or in a metal bowl over a saucepan of simmering water), stirring frequently. When the chocolate and butter are both melted and smooth, add 1 cup of the sugar to the mixture, and stir it for 30 seconds; then remove the mixture from the heat, and stir in the vanilla extract. Pour the mixture into a large bowl.<\/p>\n

Put the remaining 1 cup sugar and the eggs into a medium bowl, and whisk by hand to combine. Little by little, pour half of the sugar and eggs into the chocolate mixture, stirring gently but constantly with a rubber spatula so that the eggs don\u2019t scramble from the heat. Beat the remaining sugar and eggs on medium speed until they are thick, pale, and doubled in volume, about 3 minutes. Using the rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped eggs and sugar into the chocolate mixture. When the eggs are almost completely incorporated, gently fold in the dry ingredients.<\/p>\n

Pour and scrape the batter into an unbuttered 8-inch square pan (I\u2019ve found a heavy nonstick metal brownie pan to be ideal, although the original recipe recommends ceramic or glass). Bake the brownies for 25-28 minutes, during which time they will rise a bit and the top will turn dry and a bit crackly. After 23 minutes, stick a knife or toothpick into the center to see how they are progressing. They should be just barely set\u2014not too raw, but still fairly gooey (mine generally take the full 28 minutes, if not a touch more). Cool the brownies in the pan on a rack. When they\u2019re completely cool, cut them into rectangular bars to serve.<\/p>\n

Note: These brownies will keep, at room temperature or refrigerated, for 2-3 days. They also freeze beautifully, although they never freeze solid\u2014a bonus (or horrible danger) if you, like me, are known to consider eating them straight from the freezer.<\/p>\n

Yield: 18 fantastically rich brownies <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I am firmly of the belief that a meal has not officially ended until one has eaten something sweet. I\u2019m not the alone, certainly, in holding this belief, and in fact, I\u2019d venture that it\u2019s more widely and faithfully subscribed to than many major religions. Now, dessert can take many shapes\u2014for the restrained, a piece of ripe fruit; for the refined, a glass of port; for me on an average night, well, graham crackers dunked in milk and a few squares of dark chocolate\u2014but the sweet tooth must be fed. So, knowing this much, you don\u2019t really think I\u2019d have left the lamb roast without a swipe at the dessert table, do you? I didn\u2019t think so.The theme of the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u201c\u2026days that are the good flesh continuing\u201d...on through to dessert | Orangette<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/orangette.net\/2005\/08\/days-that-are-the-good-flesh-continuing-on-through-to-dessert\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u201c\u2026days that are the good flesh continuing\u201d...on through to dessert | Orangette\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I am firmly of the belief that a meal has not officially ended until one has eaten something sweet. 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